Pakistan: "The Most Dangerous Place in the World" ('The Economist') - 28 October 2007
One of my mates told me I should try writing a blog about my recent trip to Pakistan. So. Here it is.
My first port of call was Karachi. It was 40 degrees celsuis.
Karachi is a mad city, but i really loved it (i will post some photos soon).
I spent some time at Clifton Beach, rode a camel, bought some flowers off a very smart 5 year old 'street' girl, ate 'Student Biryani' each night in Karachi (feeding the feral cats who wandered into the restraunts who always somehow managed to find me, like the poor beggars), and was generally amazed by the city - that looks as though it's about to fall apoart, but somehow manages not to.
I then travelled to Balachistan to the marvelous city of Quetta. I love that place, it is a real-life cowboy city - occasional Taliban hide-out, so-called 'frontier' city. A bully's paradise! Such a strange, funny yet beautiful place. There really were Taliban there.
The hospitality I was shown while in Quetta though, blew me away. Everyone bought me clothes, they took me sightseeing around balochistan (borders Afghanistan, which is a bit hairy at times lol), fed me toooo much, and generally showered me with Love. Yes, it's a very loving culture. Friends walk the streets hand in hand, hugging eachother on departure - as though it would be the last time they would see eachother ...
I went walking in the mountains, went to Ziarat where Jinnah (the 'father of the nation of Pakistan') retired in his later years, saw a 1000 year old tree that had grown in such a way as to show the name Allah (God in Arabic) in perfect Arabic script, and had dinner with some lovely Ziarat locals. The word 'hospitable' can't adequately describe how I was treated by these lovely folk!
Back to the cowboy city of Quetta, where Klashminokovs (otherwise known as AK47's) reign supreme!
I spent most of my time in this city, with its sprawling population of Afghan refugees (and Australia thought it had something to worry about with the boat people). Over a million refugees live here, and they are so poor. They buid mud houses into the mountains, amazing architectural feats in their own right really.
I can't really describe much more about Quetta ... I think that possiby more will come to me, but I still feel as though I never left. It was so great, but it really is a blur!
My last day and a half was spent in Karachi waiting for my flight home.
I stayed close to the airport in a lovely guesthouse owned by an ex-military dude. I absorbed as much as I could the dissonant azans (Muslim calls to prayer) that blared out of each mosque as I knew I was soon to leave. I watched the kite-fights out my window til mid-afternoon when I went for a goodbye walk.
I noticed an electricity in the air. Ramadan (Muslim month of fasting) was coming to an end and people were preparing for Eid (massive celebration for the end of Fasting). There were also Benazir Bhutto posters everwhere. The news broadcasted that she was to return a week from my last day in Pakistan.
As the sun went down and the feral dogs and cats came out, I walked back to the guest-house. I felt so sad to leave, for some reason.
A week later, back in Australia, I awoke to the terrible news that there had been a terrorist attack on the streets of Karachi, aimed at assasinating Bhutto. 150 people had been killed.
I watched a special report on SBS's Dateline about Bhutto's homecoming. The journalist took the journey from the airport to Bhutto's residence, a celebratory parade that continued for over 8 hours with over a milion supporters of the ex-prime minister crowding the streets.
I watched his footage of the PPP's (Pakistani People's Party) supporters dance of joy, and I watched in sadness as the bomb went off not far from where he stood.
Tears came to my eyes as I thought of the many idealistic young Pakistanis I had spoken to, who desperately want political change, and who are tired of the poverty and corruption.
I sadly saw similar hopeful-expectation on the faces of the now-dead, those rallying around Bhutto on what looked like an electric Karachi night.
My first port of call was Karachi. It was 40 degrees celsuis.
Karachi is a mad city, but i really loved it (i will post some photos soon).
I spent some time at Clifton Beach, rode a camel, bought some flowers off a very smart 5 year old 'street' girl, ate 'Student Biryani' each night in Karachi (feeding the feral cats who wandered into the restraunts who always somehow managed to find me, like the poor beggars), and was generally amazed by the city - that looks as though it's about to fall apoart, but somehow manages not to.
I then travelled to Balachistan to the marvelous city of Quetta. I love that place, it is a real-life cowboy city - occasional Taliban hide-out, so-called 'frontier' city. A bully's paradise! Such a strange, funny yet beautiful place. There really were Taliban there.
The hospitality I was shown while in Quetta though, blew me away. Everyone bought me clothes, they took me sightseeing around balochistan (borders Afghanistan, which is a bit hairy at times lol), fed me toooo much, and generally showered me with Love. Yes, it's a very loving culture. Friends walk the streets hand in hand, hugging eachother on departure - as though it would be the last time they would see eachother ...
I went walking in the mountains, went to Ziarat where Jinnah (the 'father of the nation of Pakistan') retired in his later years, saw a 1000 year old tree that had grown in such a way as to show the name Allah (God in Arabic) in perfect Arabic script, and had dinner with some lovely Ziarat locals. The word 'hospitable' can't adequately describe how I was treated by these lovely folk!
Back to the cowboy city of Quetta, where Klashminokovs (otherwise known as AK47's) reign supreme!
I spent most of my time in this city, with its sprawling population of Afghan refugees (and Australia thought it had something to worry about with the boat people). Over a million refugees live here, and they are so poor. They buid mud houses into the mountains, amazing architectural feats in their own right really.
I can't really describe much more about Quetta ... I think that possiby more will come to me, but I still feel as though I never left. It was so great, but it really is a blur!
My last day and a half was spent in Karachi waiting for my flight home.
I stayed close to the airport in a lovely guesthouse owned by an ex-military dude. I absorbed as much as I could the dissonant azans (Muslim calls to prayer) that blared out of each mosque as I knew I was soon to leave. I watched the kite-fights out my window til mid-afternoon when I went for a goodbye walk.
I noticed an electricity in the air. Ramadan (Muslim month of fasting) was coming to an end and people were preparing for Eid (massive celebration for the end of Fasting). There were also Benazir Bhutto posters everwhere. The news broadcasted that she was to return a week from my last day in Pakistan.
As the sun went down and the feral dogs and cats came out, I walked back to the guest-house. I felt so sad to leave, for some reason.
A week later, back in Australia, I awoke to the terrible news that there had been a terrorist attack on the streets of Karachi, aimed at assasinating Bhutto. 150 people had been killed.
I watched a special report on SBS's Dateline about Bhutto's homecoming. The journalist took the journey from the airport to Bhutto's residence, a celebratory parade that continued for over 8 hours with over a milion supporters of the ex-prime minister crowding the streets.
I watched his footage of the PPP's (Pakistani People's Party) supporters dance of joy, and I watched in sadness as the bomb went off not far from where he stood.
Tears came to my eyes as I thought of the many idealistic young Pakistanis I had spoken to, who desperately want political change, and who are tired of the poverty and corruption.
I sadly saw similar hopeful-expectation on the faces of the now-dead, those rallying around Bhutto on what looked like an electric Karachi night.